Table 7.2 in the DRV8256E datasheet is consistent with our documentation. When EN is high, the outputs are driving, and when it is low, they are high impedance (i.e. coasting). Connecting a PWM signal to this pin results in variable speeds proportional to the duty cycle, with the direction of the current controlled by the PH pin (i.e. sign-magnitude operation). We do not explicitly mention it in our documentation, but you can connect a suitably high-frequency PWM signal to the PH pin instead if you want locked-antiphase operation. Is that how you are using yours?
We do not have any example Arduino code for that specific purpose, but you can find a simple example Arduino sketch that reads the output of the Pololu Distance Sensor with Pulse Width Output, 50cm Max and displays the measured distance in millimeters on the sensor's product page. It should be fairly simple to use that as a reference and add some IF statements to activate your various relay boards. If you try doing that and have problems, I suggest posting a request for help that includes what you have so far on our forum, which is a much better place for debugging or troubleshooting code.
Please note that our Micro Metal Gearmotors are brushed DC motors (not brushless). The Maestro cannot directly control a brushed DC motors like that. If you want to control a brushed DC motor through a USB interface, you could use something like our G2 Jrk Motor Controllers, but please note that you would have to add extra components like a potentiometer to do closed-loop position control like a servo. Alternatively, you could use a G2 Simple Motor Controller (SMC) which supports limit switches that you can use to stop the motor at the extremes of your range of motion.
The combination of a Micro Maestro servo controller and a micro servo is probably the more practical option, and it is fairly comparable in size to a Jrk or SMC paired with a Micro Metal Gearmotor, especially if you have to use additional components like a potentiometer or limit switches to get it to behave like you want.
If you want to continue the discussion or need more assistance in choosing components, please post a request for help on our forum, which is a much better place for this kind of discussion, and we would be glad to assist you further.
We noticed that you asked a similar question on a few of these line-follower blog posts. In order to keep the comments from getting too cluttered, we responded to your post here.
In the future, you might consider posting questions like these on our forum.
We noticed that you asked a similar question on a few of these line-follower blog posts. In order to keep the comments from getting too cluttered, we responded to your post here.
In the future, you might consider posting questions like these on our forum.
We noticed that you asked similar questions on a few of these line-follower blog posts; we do not have all of these line following robots accessible anymore to measure them, but they all use a similar strategy with the motors in the rear and the line sensor extended toward the front.
The ideal distance between the ground and the sensor depends on the specific sensor you are using. We list the "Optimal sensing distance" for our QTR reflectance sensors on their respective product pages.
If you are looking for more advice or have more questions about using our parts in a line following robot, I recommend posting a request for help on our forum.
It should work fine with 3.3V logic, but you might consider powering the board with a 3.3V source through the "3V3 (OUT)" pin and leaving the VDD pin disconnected to bypass the onboard regulator. Alternatively, you might consider using the simple breakout board for microSD cards since you do not need the additional level shifters.
It is not clear to me what exactly you are trying to do, but this is not an appropriate place to answer detailed questions or get into troubleshooting. You might consider posting a request for help on our forum and include a lot more details about what you are doing. Alternatively, you can email us at support@pololu.com.
Microcontrollers usually have a diode going from each I/O pin to its logic supply. These diodes clamp the voltage on the pins, preventing pull-up resistors like the one on the D24D50F5 board from pulling the pins too high (and the resistor limits the current through the diode), so it is probably fine. However, if you want to be extra safe and not rely on the clamping diodes, you could remove the pull-up resistor from the regulator. The pull-up resistor is the small black component labeled "01D" near the mounting hole in the bottom right-hand corner of this picture of the underside of the regulator.
New products: DRV8256E/P motor driver carriers
- 24 February 2022Hello, Don.
Table 7.2 in the DRV8256E datasheet is consistent with our documentation. When EN is high, the outputs are driving, and when it is low, they are high impedance (i.e. coasting). Connecting a PWM signal to this pin results in variable speeds proportional to the duty cycle, with the direction of the current controlled by the PH pin (i.e. sign-magnitude operation). We do not explicitly mention it in our documentation, but you can connect a suitably high-frequency PWM signal to the PH pin instead if you want locked-antiphase operation. Is that how you are using yours?
Brandon
New products: DRV8256E/P motor driver carriers
- 14 February 2022Hello, DonQ.
That is how the driver is intended to be used. If you still think there is a problem with that, can you elaborate?
Brandon
New Pololu distance sensors with digital and pulse width outputs
- 27 December 2021Hello.
We do not have any example Arduino code for that specific purpose, but you can find a simple example Arduino sketch that reads the output of the Pololu Distance Sensor with Pulse Width Output, 50cm Max and displays the measured distance in millimeters on the sensor's product page. It should be fairly simple to use that as a reference and add some IF statements to activate your various relay boards. If you try doing that and have problems, I suggest posting a request for help that includes what you have so far on our forum, which is a much better place for debugging or troubleshooting code.
Brandon
Video: Getting started with the Maestro
- 24 November 2021Hello.
Please note that our Micro Metal Gearmotors are brushed DC motors (not brushless). The Maestro cannot directly control a brushed DC motors like that. If you want to control a brushed DC motor through a USB interface, you could use something like our G2 Jrk Motor Controllers, but please note that you would have to add extra components like a potentiometer to do closed-loop position control like a servo. Alternatively, you could use a G2 Simple Motor Controller (SMC) which supports limit switches that you can use to stop the motor at the extremes of your range of motion.
The combination of a Micro Maestro servo controller and a micro servo is probably the more practical option, and it is fairly comparable in size to a Jrk or SMC paired with a Micro Metal Gearmotor, especially if you have to use additional components like a potentiometer or limit switches to get it to behave like you want.
If you want to continue the discussion or need more assistance in choosing components, please post a request for help on our forum, which is a much better place for this kind of discussion, and we would be glad to assist you further.
Brandon
Paul's Wixel-based line following robot: Two Point Four
- 16 September 2021Hello.
We noticed that you asked a similar question on a few of these line-follower blog posts. In order to keep the comments from getting too cluttered, we responded to your post here.
In the future, you might consider posting questions like these on our forum.
Brandon
Nathan's line following robot: Suckbot
- 16 September 2021Hello.
We noticed that you asked a similar question on a few of these line-follower blog posts. In order to keep the comments from getting too cluttered, we responded to your post here.
In the future, you might consider posting questions like these on our forum.
Brandon
Jeremy's line following robot: Zumo Slim
- 16 September 2021Hello.
We noticed that you asked similar questions on a few of these line-follower blog posts; we do not have all of these line following robots accessible anymore to measure them, but they all use a similar strategy with the motors in the rear and the line sensor extended toward the front.
The ideal distance between the ground and the sensor depends on the specific sensor you are using. We list the "Optimal sensing distance" for our QTR reflectance sensors on their respective product pages.
As far as the algorithm, most of our line following robots have used PID control. You can find a good breakdown of how this works from the "Example Project #1: Line Following" section from our 3pi Robot's user's guide.
If you are looking for more advice or have more questions about using our parts in a line following robot, I recommend posting a request for help on our forum.
Brandon
New product: Breakout Board for microSD Card with 3.3V Regulator and Level Shifters
- 6 August 2021Hello, Adam.
It should work fine with 3.3V logic, but you might consider powering the board with a 3.3V source through the "3V3 (OUT)" pin and leaving the VDD pin disconnected to bypass the onboard regulator. Alternatively, you might consider using the simple breakout board for microSD cards since you do not need the additional level shifters.
Brandon
New Tic T500 revision to address problem with missed steps
- 8 June 2021Hello, Israel.
It is not clear to me what exactly you are trying to do, but this is not an appropriate place to answer detailed questions or get into troubleshooting. You might consider posting a request for help on our forum and include a lot more details about what you are doing. Alternatively, you can email us at support@pololu.com.
Brandon
New Product: 5V, 5A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V50F5
- 13 April 2021Hello, Don.
Microcontrollers usually have a diode going from each I/O pin to its logic supply. These diodes clamp the voltage on the pins, preventing pull-up resistors like the one on the D24D50F5 board from pulling the pins too high (and the resistor limits the current through the diode), so it is probably fine. However, if you want to be extra safe and not rely on the clamping diodes, you could remove the pull-up resistor from the regulator. The pull-up resistor is the small black component labeled "01D" near the mounting hole in the bottom right-hand corner of this picture of the underside of the regulator.
Brandon